Suits

[InLikeFlint]

Hey Everyone!

So my motivation go be successful is as follows:

I don't currently own a suit, I have a blazer that I hate, and a few dress shirts and ties etc, but nothing too fancy. I promised myself that when I get my first check from one of my ventures, the first thing I will buy is a custom suit. My parents have offered to buy me a few suits a few times, but this will really motivate me to succeed. I love clothes, and I love dress clothes, this is how I motivate myself.

My question is:

What suits and fits do you guys like?

I have been looking at a site called Indochino which offers fully custom suits around $500-750, but I think there are probably better out there.

What to keep in mind with your recommendations:

I am about 5ft 11in and I way around 155lbs, I am very skinny and "lanky". I love the look of slim fit modern suits (Think Michael Westin from Burn Notice, Ryan Wolfe from CSI Miami, Kevin Ryan from Castle, etc). I want to go with something nice for my first suit, something I will be wearing say 10 years from now when I am 26 and I will be able to say this is the first suit I ever bought, along with it obviously will come dress shirts and ties and shoes, but my primary focus is suits!

What do you guys think?!

Cheers,

Flint

 

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[Vigilante]

The only suit I plan to ever buy again is by Billabong.

 

[Rickson9]

All my suits are made to measure so they all fit well wherever I decide to have it done. Primary consideration is the texture/pattern and thread count rather than the brand. Once you go made to measure, it's impossible to go back.

Shirts are all French cuff and also made to measure. No monogram. Wide collar.

Cufflinks and ties from whatever I see that I like. Ties are Double Windsor - always.

75% of the time I add a vest. Depends on mood.

Shoes are Cole Haan extra wide. Shoes and belt from the same place because I need them to match.

 

[Kak]

What suits and fits do you guys like?

I currently wear edit:"Calvin Klein" (Black Pin and Solid grey), Jos A Bank (Solid Black) and Pronto Umo (grey pin) tailored to me. The Pronto looks and feels the nicest. Once I finish my weight loss I am going here: Bill Walker Clothier - Finest Men's Shop in Houston and getting a couple of custom suits to replace them.

If you are only getting one, get a nice dark grey pinstriped suit.

I like Kenneth Cole Slim-Fit shirts a lot, definitely the best looking, off the rack, shirt on me. I mostly get french cuffs.

I currently wear Cole Haan Shoes, but they are getting worn out. I am going to get some of these. I think they look bad a$$: http://www.neimanmarcus.com/p/Salva...nements%3D&eItemId=prod42430107&cmCat=product

Buy a shit load of ties. I have like 50 and none of them are skinny ties. I use a full-windsor knot about 90% of the time and a half widnsor loose or no tie when I need to dress down for more blue collar facility meetings. These are also no place for french cuffs.

Dont button the bottom button. Button the top when you are standing up and trying to be more formal. Leave open for less formal or when you are sitting.

I hate shirts with pockets.

 

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[GuestUser8117]

For the shoes I am wearing bostonians prescott loafers. This exactly : Amazon.com: Bostonian Men's Prescott Slip-on: Shoes

My mother said "you look like a gangster" . Haha. I even bought a hat lol.
What do you think?

 

[Kak]

Pretty sweet! I think they would be cool in brown. My problem with brown is getting the belt to match though so I avoid it all together.

 

[GuestUser8117]

Pretty sweet! I think they would be cool in brown. My problem with brown is getting the belt to match though so I avoid it all together.

They cost me $130 lol. A little expensive just for shoes.

 

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[Kak]

I want a linen leisure suit.

 

[GetShitDone]

For the shoes I am wearing bostonians prescott loafers. This exactly : Amazon.com: Bostonian Men's Prescott Slip-on: Shoes

My mother said "you look like a gangster" . Haha. I even bought a hat lol.
What do you think?

Goodfellas: "You Look Like A Gangstar!" - YouTube

 

[Astute]

Do not get a 'bespoke' suit for $500-700. It will be ****. The quality will be awful and it will be a waste of money.

You are better off getting an 'off the rack' suit and just getting it altered to your body shape / size etc. Colour, you are probably better off going for solid navy as it will allow you to wear it with plenty of shirt / tie combinations.

Get a good pair of shoes in the region of $100-150.

 

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[GuestUser8117]

Goodfellas: "You Look Like A Gangstar!" - YouTube

My favorite movie of all time.

 

[InLikeFlint]

I recently had a conversation with one of my close friends about suits. He is aware that a suit will be my first purchase, and he was asking me about the suit I want to get.

He asked me this question:

A suit is a lot more than just a color and a fit, in what other ways are you going to customize it?

I told him that I wanted a slim modern fit grey suit: slim notch collar, 2 button, slanted pockets with no flaps, pick stitching around the lapels, functioning boutonniere and buttonholes, contrasting buttons, a pen pocket, custom lettering and lining on the inside of the jacket, and 2 pleats in the pants.

What do you guys customize on your suit to make it personal and to make it look amazing?

 

[Vigilante]

If you ever have the chance to get to Hong Kong, find a local (maybe your host or vendor) to take you to the market. You can get the most amazing custom tailored suits and shirts --- at a fraction of the cost of what you would pay for an off the rack suit in the United States.

I won't be doing that on my upcoming trip to Asia...unless someone gets hitched or kicks... I don't want to wear a suit again ever. I am more about the flip flops with the beer opener in the sole.

 

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[InLikeFlint]

Is the quality the same of a high end suit from Burberry, Armani, Polo, Hugo Boss, or Brooks Brothers?

 

[Kak]

If you ever have the chance to get to Hong Kong, find a local (maybe your host or vendor) to take you to the market. You can get the most amazing custom tailored suits and shirts --- at a fraction of the cost of what you would pay for an off the rack suit in the United States.

I won't be doing that on my upcoming trip to Asia...unless someone gets hitched or kicks... I don't want to wear a suit again ever. I am more about the flip flops with the beer opener in the sole.

Sounds like another good reason to go to HK. Get 10 suits for the price of 1.

 

[Kak]

Vig. I think you need a white linen leisure suit for those flipflops and the good sungrown cigars.

 

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[Vigilante]

Is the quality the same of a high end suit from Burberry, Armani, Polo, Hugo Boss, or Brooks Brothers?

Probably not. You might sacrifice a bit of quality for 1/3 of the cost, and it actually should look BETTER as it is a perfect fit vs. a tailored alteration. It is literally YOUR suit.

 

[CEBenz]

I'd heard that Vig but I'd been told Singapore. Though these days Singapore is sounding pricey.

I've always a pair of Farragamo shoes. Maybe a suit. Prefer to wear flip flops, shorts, and a Hawaiian shirt though, or good linen shirt if its warm.

 

[Jill]

I know I'm a chick... But I would be happy to help you with anything / questions you may have about menswear. It's my hobby business. Well, it's actually TWO of my hobby businesses. I've been working and playing in menswear for a dozen years, and have forgotten more than anyone should ever know about it!!

SUITS:
Actually, you can get a "bespoke" suit for a reasonable price if you are willing to travel to Vietnam or Hong Kong. There are a few reputable tailors who come here to take measurements, then go back to Asia to make them. They do pretty good work for $500-700. Problem is you are not going to get the benefit of multiple fittings like you would by using a state-side (or Savile Row) tailor, which will cost you $2-5k if they are worth their salt. So if you have a "normal" body type, then you can either go the MTM (Made-to-Measure) route (which is a better description of the first option I mentioned, as opposed to "bespoke"). Or, as someone else mentioned, you can just get a RTW suit from a reputable maker which uses canvas construction, and have it altered to fit you. These would be: Canali, Corneliani, Hickey Freeman, Southwick, Samuelsohn, etc. Some Brooks Bros are constructed on canvas. And I think Jos A Bank even offers an executive line. I could give you a list of other amazingly well made OTR suits, but they cost as much as a lot of custom pieces! (Oxxford, Brioni, Kiton, Zegna, Pal Zileri, etc.)

But truthfully, if you are a "normal" size, check out eBay. I regularly sell (used) $3-4k suits for $3-400. If they're NWT, you can get them for .20-.25 on the retail dollar.

I would avoid any diffusion brand such as Mani (diffusion brand of Armani), Ralph or Lauren or Chaps (all diffusion brands of Ralph Lauren), most Boss and most Burberry. If you aren't sure, ask the salesman if they are canvassed. If they don't know, RUN the other way. If you can find blue or purple label Ralph Lauren, then it is safe!

Re: your question about style features: Notched lapels on a single breasted suit scream "I know style" because they're not common, but they are def a favorite of dandies. Some like watch pockets and ticket pockets. Many like "surgeon's cuffs" (functioning sleeve buttons) on their suit coats. Just be sure you get it tailored right the first time, because they're nearly impossible to alter once they're done!

SHIRTS:
IMO, the best (for the buck) "custom" shirt you can buy is from Jantzen Tailors in Hong Kong. Last shirt I ordered from them was $40 I think. And it is custom down to the cuff, collar, placket, gusset and button type!! Amazing selection, and the construction quality is impeccable single-needle tailoring. The only shirts in the world that SHOULD cost significantly more are the hand finished Borrelli, Sulka, Kiton and one other line from Florence that is slipping my mind right now. Not only are they hand finished, they are also made with the FINEST shirting fabrics in the world. (retail ~ $600ish)

TIES:
I know I'm partial, since this is my business. But I would only get ties made in England and Italy. I might make an exception for France so that I can include Charvet. But while the Chinese are doing a great job of constructing the ties they make, their finishing (the gum on the silk) is still nowhere near the quality of the silks woven in England and Como, Italy. I can spot a Chinese tie 90% of the time without even touching it.

If you have a substantial tie (either because it is a folded tie or because it is a densely woven silk), then you don't have to use a Windsor knot. In fact, a Windsor would look silly with some collar types. Great for a spread or cut-away. But you would want to use a half-Windsor or 4-in-hand knot for narrower / smaller collars like point, tab or some button-downs.

Just my 2 lira... which aren't worth much any more! ;-)

 

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[DennisD]

I have a very distinct style I'm aiming for myself.

I'm a very quirky eccentric guy. I like what I like. I use computers I built myself in custom cases I designed. I aim to run my business out of a castle, and I'm constantly refining a concept I have for my future 'style'.

I'm aiming for a unique mix between punkrock and steampunk with a dash of cowboy/rancher. Think old-time industrial era pinstripe formalwear, with a few spikes/studs as accents in key places (corners of cuffs, collars, etc.) A nice antique Pocketwatch, belt buckle, possibly a tailcoat, perhaps a fedora.

My fitness, financial, and skill-level goals all revolve around attaining a unique lifestyle and living in a very particular way.

 

[InLikeFlint]

Thanks for the reply Jill!

So in your opinion a custom suit from Hong Kong is better quality than any high end suits?

For those shirts are you able to order them online? If so how do you do the specific measurements?

Also, what are your thoughts on belts/shoes/smaller accessories (Cuff Links, Tie Clips, Tie Pins, etc etc).

 

[InLikeFlint]

Dennis:

Is this style just a bunch of stuff put together or are you going to have custom garments made?

 

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[Arrabista]

Another Great Place along the vein of what Vigilante Was suggesting in Hong Kong is in Bangkok,thailand

these guys : RAJAWONGSE TAILORS
here is tehre website

Rajawongse Clothier - Dress For Success!

here is trip advisor reviews etc

Rajawongse Clothier - Bangkok - Reviews of Rajawongse Clothier - TripAdvisor


Like everything you have to do your due diligence , but these guys are the real deal and i highly recommend them ...
they have mades suits for bill clinton and been interviewd on CNBC...

If you are ever down bangkok way , get measured for a suit and a shirt and then they will keep your measurements and you can just email them for further orders...

They have been around for years and walk the walk and talk the talk ...

I usually take a shirt that i like the cut of and get them to copy the design and fit and just get to pick the colour,patterns and fabric I like.

Their craftsmanship is fantastic.

Just my 2 cents worth ....or 2 bahts worth

cheers,

Arrabista

 

[Jill]

Thanks for the reply Jill!

So in your opinion a custom suit from Hong Kong is better quality than any high end suits?

No! Not necessarily. Just saying that if you do your due diligence in selecting fabrics, and know what to ask for, you can get a pretty darned nice suit for less than the cost of a high quality RTW suit such as Hickey Freeman or the others I listed that retail for ~ $1k.

For those shirts are you able to order them online? If so how do you do the specific measurements?

Yes. Jantzen Tailor Official Website. I have no affiliation other than being a satisfied customer. They recommend that you either send them your best fitting shirt so that they can copy the measurements, or go to a professional and have yourself measured. I always felt like a creep doing this tho, since I knew I wasn't going to use that tailor's services. So I just measured myself as well as I could. It took me just one ill-fitted shirt to figure it out!!

FAlso, what are your thoughts on belts/shoes/smaller accessories (Cuff Links, Tie Clips, Tie Pins, etc etc).

Well, that's a pretty broad question!! LOL! I always think that subtle is better than loud. Tie clips and pins are quirky accessories that have largely been out of style since the 70s. BUT, thanks to Madmen and natural cycles in fashion, both are enjoying a bit of a comeback the last 5ish years much in the same way that the bowtie is.

If you can wear it and OWN the look, then go for it. If you are insecure about it, don't even try!

I LOVE beautiful shoes on a man. And in case you guys didn't know, this is one of the things that women look at to see if you are a cut above the others. Unless you walk to work in a perennially rainy/snowy city, always wear leather-soled dress shoes! Always! The best bang for the buck in US sourced shoes are Allen Edmonds and Alden (at ~$300). I wouldn't seriously consider anything else. England has a great, rich tradition in bench made shoes. You can get some really wonderful shoes for $2-500ish. Beyond that, you are looking at custom made shoes, on a custom last from the likes of Vass (best value IMO) of Budapest, for $700-1000. Then, they just go up from there. There are decent RTW shoes from Ferragamo, Gucci, etc. I could go on. But you get the idea. I'd be happy to elaborate if you had specific questions.

 

[DennisD]

Dennis:

Is this style just a bunch of stuff put together or are you going to have custom garments made?

It'd HAVE to be a custom garments to be cohesive. What I'd want would be very specific and tailored to fit, so this is the only way I can see it working:

My GFs an illustrator so I'd probably sit down with her, and nail out the designs on paper. I'd have to get some fabric samples, and lay it out in an easy-to-understand reference package. And then search for a designer who can assemble the wardrobe.

 

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[Jake]

I am more about the flip flops with the beer opener in the sole.

Greatest flip flops of all time. Love my Reefs

 

[Entourage]

Jill, I'm loving your advice!

As for entry level suits, what are your thoughts on Barutti?

2 button or three buttons?

What advice would you give to a young fella who needs to wear suits, but doesn't want to 'become' a suit? I love everything bespoke, but I'd like to make my outfit a little bit more casual without losing the chic...

thanks!

 

[Jill]

As for entry level suits, what are your thoughts on Barutti?

If you are referring to the Barutti Harris Tweed (which I doubt), then the quality is good. But you are probably referring to the German Barutti, right? I'm not very familiar with their construction. But based on their MSRP, I would assume that they are fused, not canvassed. They are nice looking. But a handful of trips to a cheap dry-cleaners (whose presses sometimes get too hot), and you'll end up with an unwearable bubbled mess. For entry level, I would keep my eyes open for a one of the brands I mentioned on eBay. You can often get them for ~ $100. I'd be happy to help you weed thru the rubbish if you ever need help.

2 button or three buttons?

Matters not. Both are equally acceptable. IMO, 2 button looks better if you're on the short side tho. Sidenote: Never button the last button on either one!

What advice would you give to a young fella who needs to wear suits, but doesn't want to 'become' a suit? I love everything bespoke, but I'd like to make my outfit a little bit more casual without losing the chic...

I know a lot of purists who would "GASP!" at the thot. But I think you can get away with the sportcoat/suit with a great shirt sans tie, especially if you're younger. French cuffs and pocket squares are great way to show a little flare, tho they have traditionally been reserved for the dressiest ensembles. (Rules were made to be broken, right?) But if your friends are accustomed to seeing you in cargos and T-shirts, you may want to gradually work your way up to this level of accessorizing!!! LOL. Don't be afraid to try a cutaway collar for a change. Very British looking, IMO, but still hip. In the end, it all just depends what look you're going for. The possibilities are endless.

 

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[bflbob]

Jill:

You are a wealth of knowledge!

My wife is always trying to dress me up.

What would you suggest to go with the stained 2008 NASCAR T-shirt and red Elmo Jammie Pants that I'm rocking right now?

My wife suggested that the only thing that would improve this look is if she had her eyes pierced.

 

[Jill]

Yes, Bob. Mrs. BFL is correct. . . unless the Elmo Jammie pants are the footie type, in which you might be okay.